Below you will find detailed free bird feeder plans for a hopper-style feeder that we designed and currently use in our backyard year-round.
These are fairly easy bird feeder plans for first-time builders, yet is very attractive, especially to the birds!
Below these plans, we also have free bird feeder plans for other types of feeders including platform, suet, tube, and hummingbird feeders.
This design will create a large birdfeeder and will easily hold a gallon of bird seed.
It accommodates small and large visitors with inner and outer perching areas, is easy to refill and keeps the bird seed dry.
We tried to make these plans as simple as possible and for the feeder to be built cheaply.
You could always fancy it up, but save your money on the fancy extras 'cause the birds don't care and instead spend it on better seed!
One of the main problems we have found with most hopper type bird feeders, is that the bird seed can get wet in the tray and also at the base of the hopper where the seed is supposed to spill out.
This causes the seed to swell and block the opening and the bird seed starts to sprout, ferment and mold.
We're trying to attract and feed birds, not to make beer out of bird seed.
This would seem to be an easy fix by simply increasing the size of the overhang of the roof. Problem is, as you increase the overhang it becomes difficult to see the birds at the feeder.
So we are also looking for the right balance between the height of the bird feeder and the amount of overhang of the roof.
We purposely designed the overhang to protect the seed tray, but to allow water to drip on the perches so the rain helps keep perches clean.
This plan also uses a new idea to help keep the bird seed and the tray dry. Instead of using a solid wood or plywood bottom to the tray, we use fiberglass screen material (just like the screens on your doors and windows).
The second main problem with most hopper bird feeder designs is that the hinged roof used to fill the hopper with bird seed tends to leak.
Unless you live in the desert, this will just create a big mess and waste bird seed.
So this plan is for a solid removable roof.
I think the roof is heavy enough to stay in place without any attachments, but it would be simple to hold with a single screw or to drill a hole and attach with bolts or a latch.
Here is the basic layout and basic instruction for the Large hopper bird feeder. Detailed instructions, material list and exact dimensions follow below.
I have tried to keep the design and instructions simple and have assumed that you don't have much carpentry experience and don't have many tools.
I have also taken pictures in order to simply the process (a picture is worth a thousand words).
I estimate that it would take a beginner between 2 to 4 hours to make the cuts and assemble the bird feeder (not counting time looking at plans etc).
Ok, so it probably won't be perfect on your first try, but at least you tried. And if somebody doesn't like it... Tell them to go kiss a bird's cloaca! So let's get started on this build a bird feeder project.
Note: A visitor amended our plans slightly to make a beautiful extra-fancy version with a cedar-shingled roof, copper lined roof cap and a hinged roof to make it easier for filling the feeder. The details for the fancy version follow below our standard plans.
I have found that cedar fence pickets are a cheap source of wood suitable for outdoor uses like bird houses and bird feeders (especially makes good roof material).
They are 6 feet (72 inches) long X 5Â½ inches wide and 5/8th inch thick and cost less than $2 each.
I used fence pickets for the roofing material for the bird feeder.
I used pieces from a 1 X 8 pine board for the Hopper End Pieces and two 1 X 2s for the tray framing, support for the screen and for the perches.
The bird feeder can be made entirely with scraps of wood or siding that you already have lying around.
Chances are, if you have scraps of wood lying around, you already have the know-how and the tools to build a bird feeder. If not, see the materials list below.
Cuts from the 1 X 8 board
Cuts from the fence picket
Cuts from the 1 X 2 boards
Glass or plexi-glass
This plan is also designed to use glass or plexi-glass (polycarbonate sheeting) so you can see how much bird seed is in the hopper, but you could use a solid materials like masonite or thin plywood for the hopper sides if you prefer.
That's all you need to get started.
Full disclosure: I used a chop saw for making the square cuts, a circular saw and clamps for the miter and kerf cuts and a staple gun to attach the screen.
Be very careful. If you don't feel confident with making the kerf cut, the glass or plexi-glas could be mounted on the outside with sealant and large pan-head type screws to help secure it in place.
The glass will be mounted permanently instead of being removable, but better to be safe than sorry. It's not that important, we are just trying to feed birds, not solve the World's problems.
We have a lot of photos, but couldn't place them all here because it makes the page load too slow, so instead they are referred to via the blue links. Just click to view the image related to the particular directions.
1. Mark and Cut the Hopper End Pieces (9 X 7¼) and as indicated in the diagram in the above link. above
2. Mark and Cut the Roof End Cap Pieces
The measurements of the End Caps are not critical,
but the angle on the top of the End Caps is critical.
The end caps are cut to the same angle as the end pieces, which determine the angle of the roof.
The end caps fit under and are attached to the roof.
The roof section (with end caps attached) then slides down over and sits on the end pieces. The weight of the roof holds the roof in place unless it is very windy, then the roof is held in place with a screw.
3. Mark and square cut the 4 roof pieces (from cedar fence picket) - each 16 inches long.
4. Mark and square cut the framing pieces (from 1 X 2) as indicated below
Note* There are several different ways to control seed flow from the seed hopper into the feeding tray - small seeds need only small gaps - be careful not to create gaps or notches too large so too much seed spills out.
Can always make a notch or gap bigger, but if the plexi-glass is cut, you can't make is smaller again.
Option 1 - Create a gap (about ½ inch) between the tray and bottom of glass panel or plexiglass.
Option 2 - If using plexi-glass, notches or archways can be cut to let the seed spill out.
Now you have all the pieces ready for assembly.
1. Assemble the Roof
2. Assemble the Frame Base
3. Attach Screen to the Hopper Base
4. Attach the frame and Screen Supports (4 pieces) with screws only (In case we need to replace the screen). Note - the screen sags too much without these supports.
5. Assemble the Hopper
5. Attach Roof
Now it wouldn't hurt to protect the bird feeder with some paint or polyurethane to help it last longer, but I plan to leave mine au natural, especially the cedar roof.
We were pleasantly surprised when we got an email from Bill from Maryland.
Bill used our basic hopper bird feeder plans that some have jokingly called the MOAB feeder (Mother of All Bird Feeders) because it is large...
C'mon man. It's not that big! And turned those into what we now call the "fancy bird feeder plans" ;-).
I originally posted the plans above to encourage people to build a simple, functional DIY birdfeeder.
Bill has taken the simple plan, improved it and dressed it up. I don't think my version of the hopper feeder is an eyesore, but Bill's hopper feeder shows what a true craftsman can do.
Bill built this feeder for his elderly parents and felt therocess of filling the feeder by removing the top would be to cumbersome for them.
To make it easier, he added hinges to attach the roof to the hopper and to allow the roof to be opened without having to hold onto the roof with one hand and fill the hopper with the other hand.
He also attached a prop to hold the top open while the hopper is being filled with bird seed.
With the hinges attached, the weight of the roof stresses and torques the sides of the hopper, so a cross brace is needed for strength.
Miter joints are really weak. Using the Spline or key technique not only creates very strong joints, but are also decorative. The technique is very easy and there are many videos available online that demonstrate how to do.
The cuts need to be made through the corners of the frame with a table saw or router which requires a jig to keep the cut square.
The decorative splines or keys are cut the same width as the blade that made the cuts and are simply glued into place.
Bill sent several pictures showing the process on other projects. In the photo, the left side shows the spline cuts filled with the spline material which have been glued in place.
The right side of the photo shows splines after the glue had dried, the excess has been cut off and sanded smooth.
Use different colored wood for a decorative look or the same color wood for a strong joint.
Drill pilot holes for all 8 screws and then fit the little 3/4" hinges on the top first. The angle between the top and the side supports prevents installation of the hinges if you screw them into the side/vertical supports first.
Also, you must place the plexiglass into the hinge side prior to screwing in the hinges. The screws interfere with the
plexiglass kerf and ultimate "lock" the plexi in place. The other side comes out easily with the top open for cleaning (if
Note: The little hinges can be purchased at your local hardware store. However, they are "light duty" hinges and you cannot use the screws that come in the package.
They are tiny and will not hold the weight of the top. I purchased eight #4 by 3/4" round head screws to give them enough holding power. It remains to be seen how the hinges hold up to the weather.
Nice job Bill and thanks again for sharing it with us.
We know your parents will get hours of enjoyment watching the birds at the feeder. Not to mention how many times they get to tell their friends that their son made it for them...And the birds won't mind either!
We look forward to seeing pictures of birds feeding at the hopper feeder when it is installed.
Now all you need to do is decide where you want to put it and how your going to put it there, then fill it up with bird seed and sit back and watch the birds. Now that is Bird Watching Bliss!
So far we have used only black oil sunflower seeds to attract bird species such as finches, chickadees, pine siskins and grosbeaks. It has kept the nuisance birds like house sparrows and starlings out and there has been little waste if any.
If you haven't heard this old saying, then it's time you did.
Measure twice and cut once. If you ignore this advice and measure once, sooner or later you will have to cut twice.
And sometimes there is no cutting twice as the board is ruined. So take your time. When in doubt? Measure again!
If you are not experienced using a power saw, be very careful. Losing a fingers is not one of today's goals.
You don't want to have to have explain to everyone the rest of your life how you hacked off your finger, though it might make a good story. If you are under 18, use a hand saw.
Practice some cuts on scrap wood until you learn how to make the saw blade follow your marks and which side of the mark the blade actually cuts, especially if you attempt the bevel cut for the roof.
For longer cuts, try clamping another board or level to use as a guide.
If new at using a hand saw, go slow and easy.
We know you are strong, but don't force the saw with those monster power strokes.
When you apply too much force, the blade tends to twist. The cut starts to bend and the blade gets pinched in the wood.
Remember, we are supposed to be having fun and lowering our blood pressure, so smile and slow down.
If you simply want to attach your new birdfeeder to a post or to your deck, the floor of the feeder can simply be screwed into the top of the post.
A PVC pipe placed around a post will help keep the squirrels away.
I don't have problems with squirrels, so I didn't use pvc pipe, but did make a simple post attachment made from pieces of 2x4 that fit snuggly to the post.
Then I drilled a hole through the post and both sides of the 2x4s and fastened with a bolt.Notice bolt and attachment of the hopper feeder to the post
If you want to temporarily place the bird feeder somewhere to see how you and the birds like it, you can clamp it to a post or deck rail with "C-clamps".
If you want to hang the bird feeder, the simplest way might be to place an eye bolt through each End piece of the hopper.
Remember the Roof overhangs the ends by 2 inches on each side, so the eye bolts need to extend at least 2Â½ inches, plus the thickness of the wood, plus at least enough on the inside for a nut to grab the bolt, so that means you need two 2Â¾ inch or 3 inch eye bolts.
Drill holes for the eyebolts, insert each eyebolt with a nut and washer inside and outside of the bird feeder.
Attach a chain or rope to the eye in each bolt and hang.
But remember that you would have to undo both eyebolts each time to refill the hopper.
As we build more, we will be adding more plans for bird feeders in the future.
If you build this feeder, let us know and we'll show it off here!
We would be happy to post your photos, design alterations, etc.. and share with other prospective bird feeder woodworkers.
We've found that it's difficult to find free bird feeder plans all in one place, so we've searched the net and did it for you as well as include our own plans for a hopper feeder. Enjoy!
Choose the feeder that fits best with the kind of birds you wish to attract. Remember to use squirrel baffles when mounting feeders on poles as well as from above.
Hopper bird feeders will attract a wide variety of birds, from chickadees to jays. It is an excellent feeder for black oil sunflower seeds.
This type of feeder is self-refilling, letting out a small quantity of seed at a time as the birds eat. The hopper has walls and a roof, to keep the seed dry, and small openings at the bottom, where a small portion of the seed can spill out from the main container onto a tray.
Below is a quick overview of building a hopper bird feeder from wood with plexi-glass windows.
We like our hopper-style, wooden bird feeder (plans above) that we built years ago and never had any problems with it and most importantly, the birds love it!
Platform bird feeders will attract the widest variety of birds because it's basically an open tray that doesn't restrict birds, big or small, from eating.
This can be a pro and a con at the same time depending on the types of birds in your neighborhood. For example, if starlings, blackbirds, pigeons, etc. take over your feeder and keep out the smaller songbirds, you may not necessarily want to put up this type of feeder.
Click on photos for platform feeder plans.
A nice addition to the basic design would be a roof or canopy to keep seeds dry. There should also be enough drainage holes to prevent water accumulation and subsequent mold and mildew growth. Here are platform bird feeders for sale.
Tube bird feeders are cylindrical tubes that cater to smaller birds with its multiple feeding stations and smaller perches.
If you remove the perches, you can restrict the feeder to only those birds that can easily cling - finches, chickadees, titmice and woodpeckers.
Or if you prefer more variety, bottom trays attached to the tube will allow larger birds to land and feed. It is excellent feeder for black oil sunflower seeds and special variation can have tiny seed ports for thistle feeding.
You can also make a simple gravity-fed, tube feeder from plastic soda bottles, bleach bottles, etc. as shown in the video further above.
Suet is a high energy food made from animal fat. Suet feeders are mesh containers which hold suet blocks and allows "clinging" birds to feed through holes.
They will attract woodpeckers, chickadees, nuthatches, kinglets, cardinals, and creepers.
If starlings are a problem at your suet feeder, discourage them by using a suet feeder with access only from the bottom. Starlings are reluctant to perch upside down.
Chickadees and woodpeckers don't find that to be a problem.
Here is a fancier suet feeder if you are good with construction:
Click on photos for suet feeder plans
Hummingbird feeders are a real favorite for attracting the color, speed, and aerial acrobatics of this small but fascinating bird.
They are inverted containers filled with nectar, or sugar water, that is dispensed through tiny holes.
Construct feeders that are easy to clean because mold & fermentation will occur inside the feeder as quickly as 3-4 days.
click on photos for humminbird feeder plans
For nearly no expense, you can build feeders from items found in or outside your house!
Below is a video demonstration to build a simple feeder.
And here are additional plans for making feeders from a mayonnaise jar, pinecone and milk carton:
Hope you've enjoyed this page of bird feeder plans and we wish you all the best in attracting lots of birds with your new feeder!
If possible, try to place your feeder where squirrels cannot access them from above or where they are unable to jump to them...otherwise, without protection, you've just built a squirrel feeder as well!
And be sure to install a squirrel baffle either above or below your bird feeders depending upon if they are hung from a branch or mounted on a pole.
If you are finding it too difficult to keep away the squirrels from your bird feeders, here are some free squirrel feeder plans to make everyone happy! Fed separately, but equally sometimes will solve the problem.
There has been controversy as to whether or not bird feeding is beneficial to birds.
If you enjoy attracting birds to your backyard and love watching and learning about them, then it doesn't matter...But take the below precautions for the birds' welfare.
Bird have feeding preferences for food as well as for how they feed.
Some are ground feeders while others will feed from perches. So think about the birds first, then choose your feeder.
And just as important, don't forget to fill your feeder with the kind of bird food that your birds desire. If they don't like what's on the menu, they'll move onto the next restaurant!
Here is a simple hopper bird feeder design with step by step instructions:
We have also found some great books that contains lots of easy plans for bird feeders as well as more elaborate, decorative style plans.
We especially like the books that contain plans for feeders, houses, shelters and bird baths all in one and relatively cheap:
Remember, you do have an ethical obligation not to jeopardize wild birds with your feeders.
Follow the precaution links below in order to provide a safe feeding environment for your birds:Precautions against Disease Preventing Bird Window Collisions Precautions against Cats
Make it a family project and get everyone involved. Make sure everyone is aware of caring for the feeder (cleaning and filling) which translates to caring for the birds.
And most of all, enjoy learning about the birds that come to your feeders and create your own birdwatching-bliss!
Just as there are many different kinds of birds, there are many different kinds of feeders such as platform, tube and hopper. It all depends on which birds you wish to attract.
Here are some more plans to take a look at for different styles:
Top-rated, best bird feeders chosen by bird watchers.
Best Squirrel Proof Bird Feeder Voted by Birders
Want to feed birds, not squirrels? This feeder is one of best squirrel proof feeders on the market.
Attach right to your window with one-way mirror.
Attract Baltimore Orioles as well as Hooded, Orchard and Bullock's Orioles with a combination fruit bird feeder.
Squirrel Feeder Plans
And tips for making your bird feeder squirrel-proof and perhaps build a feeder just for the squirrels to keep them away from the bird feeder. Also best squirrel feeder.
Bird Food - What do Birds Prefer?
Which wild bird seed to use in order to attract the species you desire to your bird feeder.
Install your feeder so that it's not easy for squirrels, raccoons, cats, etc.. to access the feeder.
Attaching a baffle on the pole of the feeder will prevent most critters from reaching the seed.
To prevent window collisions, place your feeder at least 30 feet aways from a window.
Window feeders are okay since the birds see the feeder on the window and not as a throughway.
Applying decals on the windows will also help prevent collisions.
Bird Watching Binoculars, Squirrel-Proof Feeder & Hummingbird Feeder
Read Our Reviews:
Nikon Monarch M5
Best mid-priced bird watching binoculars. Waterproof, shockproof, multi-coated ED-Glass.
No batteries, adjustable, easy to clean...and no squirrels!
"Best New Product" Award.
Best Hummingbird Feeder
Drip-Free, Ant-moat, Durable, Easy to Fill and Clean.
|Click Images or Links To View More Info|